Amalfi Coast Guide

Amalfi is a dream. Literally, it’s on top of many a destination wedding list and is one of the top honeymoon locales. Summer is peak time, but since the weather is so mild, you can visit all year round. My friend Victoria and I took advantage of the shoulder season this February and got a glimpse of these coastal towns without the crowds. The Amalfi Coast was once a string of sleepy fishing villages all connected by a Roman road, until famous films were set here and Instagram became a thing, and…well. We know the rest.

Sorrento

We based ourselves in Sorrento because it is on the main train line from Rome/Naples, and most of the shops, restaurants, and hotels were still open during the off season, unlike other towns in the region. Sorrento has a lovely main street, lots of restaurant options, and charming narrow walkways through town or along the coastal ridges. We stayed at an Airbnb at the Marina Grande. It was quiet and quaint, well away from the bustle of downtown.

Capri

We took a ferry out to Capri for an afternoon. In the off season, this is still a working fishing island, but almost everything for tourists is closed, save a handful of cafes. It was a fun change of scenery, and we discovered a few hidden gems. In summer, the roads of Capri (and the Amalfi Coast) are basically gridlocked with all the visitors, so we got a unique experience to see it without crowds.

Positano

Positano was the most closed-down of all the towns we visited, but it was still beautiful! I recommend stopping here for sunset. Buses back to Sorrento ran into the evening, but they were still packed, despite the off season. And don’t forget to visit Salvatore’s fruit stand, along the main road above Positano! He is super friendly to tourists and sells fresh-squeezed juices and fruit.

Amalfi

The beach at Amalfi town is the best, in my opinion. It’s wide enough for people to spread out, and there’s a lovely boardwalk to stroll. Amalfi also has a spectacular cathedral with massive steps and black and white stonework. Like Sorrento, much of the businesses were open in Amalfi; it would also make a great choice as a base for exploring the region. The difference to me is that Amalfi is on the water and has a nice swimming beach, whereas Sorrento is up on the cliffs and has fantastic views but no beach to swim (only marinas for boating).

Ravello

Last but not least, Ravello! This small town is up on the cliffs above Amalfi. If you come all the way to Ravello (and I think you should!) you absolutely cannot miss Villa Rufolo. There is an entrance fee, but the grounds and views are so worth it. And I can’t mention enough how lucky we got with the sunshine for our whole trip! Winter can be a gamble with the weather; it can often rain, and the seas can be rough so boats often don’t go out on the water. But you’ll notice some people actually swimming in the photo of Amalfi above, and while we still needed our coats, it was such a pleasant time all around. Like summer but without the crowds or high prices!