Imagine church bells tolling over medieval city walls as you watch the sun set over the harbor, the turquoise Adriatic Sea calming to glass, and polished stone walkways gleaming in the last light. Nope, it’s not a movie set. It’s Dubrovnik, Croatia!

My 12-day workation in Dubrovnik was a dream, and I’ve finally sat down to share all about it. I can’t recommend this city enough. It has charm x1000 and gives you the convenience and familiarity of a European city while still being unique enough to feel like no other place on Earth. Yes, you read that right: I really spent 12 days all in one place. I was working remotely the whole time, so I took it slow and just swam, read, sunbathed, and strolled all day, then had plenty of energy to take on the workday in the evening.

Whether you are going at a similar pace or just have a few days, I’ve rounded up my can’t-miss recommendations for where to see, eat, and stay.

Walk the Walls

For a fee, you can enter one of three staircases that go up to the city walls, which is a must-see. On a hot day, go in the morning right when it opens, because there is absolutely no shade and you might be climbing a lot of stairs. But there is ice cream and drinks along the way! This is really a picturesque way to take in the city, and you are free to stroll at your own pace or join a tour for more historical insight.

Swim in the Sea

You have a ton of options around Dubrovnik for beaches. Keep in mind, there aren’t any fine-sand beaches around but instead rocky outcroppings to sunbathe on or large-pebbled beaches that would still be a bit painful to walk on. I didn’t have water shoes, but I did see a lot of people with them and they wouldn’t be a bad idea.

The most popular for tourists is Banje Beach, and while it can be nice with the city in the background, I honestly found it too crowded to enjoy it. It was unfortunate because it was the closest one to my apartment!

Instead, I spent more time at Dance Beach, which was my favorite. It isn’t a beach so much as rocks you can jump off. But it has a more laid back atmosphere and seems to be a favorite among locals.

I also recommend Bellevue Beach, which has a pebbly shore and a cool sea cave you can swim into. When I was there, a water polo tournament was going on, and I later learned water polo is pretty big in Croatia.

My Airbnb host also told me about a secret swimming spot that you enter through the grounds of an abandoned mansion. Obviously I was sold. It’s not marked on Google Maps, so here are my totally not sketchy directions: head to this ATM that doesn’t exist and find the iron gate on the corner, which should be unlocked. Go straight through the gate and past the house, pick your way through the dilapidated gardens and follow some stairs down the cliff until you reach the water. Boom: a swimming spot with almost no people!

Explore Lokrum Island

If you want to get away from the city, Lokrum Island is only 15 minutes away! This island was a really peaceful place to spend a day. There are some bars and restaurants, but not enough to make it feel crowded. The island is spacious and there are plenty of different areas to swim, including a “dead sea” swimming hole! There’s also a monastery where they filmed some scenes of Game of Thrones, plus roaming peacocks and a fortress at the top of the hill with panoramic views of the island and Dubrovik. Highly, highly recommend a visit to Lokrum!

Take a Day Trip

I took two separate day trips to Herzegovina and Montenegro. I had a really pleasant experience with Dubrovnik Day Tours. They were pricier than the other companies when I was doing my research, but that is because they use a private car (or van if your group is large enough) rather than the big coach tours of the other companies. Fortunately I had the car and driver all to myself, so there was no time wasted picking up other passengers, herding everyone to get back in time, etc. My driver was so nice and told me all about his life in Croatia, and he was flexible about timing and never rushed me. There’s nothing worse than feeling rushed on a tour, so I think the extra cost was worth it.

If I had to pick one or the other to recommend, Mostar in Herzegovina did not disappoint! It is a picturesque, fairytale town with an iconic bridge and cute shops. Along the way we stopped at another walled city and the famous Kravice Falls (which you can swim in if you bring your suit!). We managed to pack in a lot, but again, never felt rushed.

Photography Spots

Practically every corner of Dubrovnik is picturesque; a tour guide even said the city was planned with a particular eye for order and balance. So stroll a bit and you’ll quickly find a picture-perfect archway or set of stairs. It’s definitely worth wandering around at sunrise to avoid other people in your shots. Some impressive places you can’t miss:

Ploce Gate

West Harbor

Rector’s Palace

Jesuit Stairs

Where to Stay

There seem to be more Airbnbs and apartments than hotels from what I could see, and I had a fantastic experience with my Airbnb. Highly recommend it! It was beautiful inside and out and had the most incredible view of the harbor and Ploce Gate. And the location (Ploce) was much more accessible than staying somewhere inside the walls, because cars aren’t allowed in the Old Town, so you’ll have to carry your luggage up a lot of steps or pay a porter. The place I stayed in was a studio apartment, but next door is a larger apartment if you need more space.

Where to Eat

I think I spent the most evenings just grabbing a super cheap slice of pizza at this little bakery close to my apartment. So delicious and open late!

Nishta had some incredible vegan food. I’m so bummed I only went there on my last day, otherwise I would have gone a lot more. Unfortunately, they never seemed to have much seating.

Sesame had a beautiful shady patio and very decent food, but it was a little pricey. I ended up going there every time I swam at Dance Beach since it was on the way.

Konoba Carpaccio had amazing pasta and the friendliest hostess! I think she must have taken pity on me eating solo (lol) and struck up a conversation with me. She wanted to hear all about what it’s like to be from California, and it was cool to learn about her background too.

As for gelato and coffee, it seems like you can’t go wrong! There are endless options, and everything seemed good. Some places only took cash though, FYI.

Final Notes

I visited in August 2021, and the summer heat was punishing. The temperature was always in the 90s, and it didn’t cool down when the sun went down. So even strolling at 10 pm still had me sweating. The sea water was barely cool enough to give some respite, but it wasn’t like ice-cool refreshing. I don’t have any good tips for combatting heat other than stay hydrated, wear a hat, and do most of your sightseeing in the morning.

As a woman traveling alone, I felt super safe in Dubrovnik. The streets are clean, there were no homeless people (really, the city pays to house them in hotels) and I felt comfortable leaving my stuff on the beach while I swam (with an eye on it, of course). There didn’t seem to be any overt misogyny that I encountered at least, and I never felt targeted in any way. A lot of this is because there are SO MANY tourists, so it’s easy to blend in with everyone else and not draw attention to yourself. But as always, use common sense and you’ll be fine.

I accidentally forgot my debit card at home, so I did this entire trip with no cash! I didn’t plan on it, but it is possible if you find yourself in the same situation. Just ask if card is ok before making any orders or getting into a cab.

This is the first trip where I utilized Airbnb Experiences for tours and things to do, and I will definitely try it more in the future! I found a tour guide for a historical walking tour and also booked a photography session since it’s tough to take pictures of yourself and I didn’t want such a picturesque place to go to waste!